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May14

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Okanagan Wineries, Part Two

Posted in: Dining, Okanagan Valley, Travel, Wine

Last week, I posted the first part of my feature covering a few of the half dozen Okanagan vineyards that our media group had recently toured. Here’s part two of the feature.

Tantalus Winery is dedicated to sustainably grown vines. We found ourselves stepping foot on the first LEED certified winery building in BC. The winery also keeps bees.

With an imposing view over the Okanagan hillside, Tantalus produces Riesling, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay. The winery is fierce proud of its three varietals; its philosophy is to keep things simple. We tasted all three.

The 2011 Riesling ($22.90) has a drier finish than a typical Riesling. It has a high natural acidity with sweetness to balance it out. It’s aged two years before release. Through the aging process, the primary fruit is able to show the riesling’s secondary characteristics.

Tantalus’ 2011 Rosé ($21.90) has a higher level of CO2 in order to lift the wine’s aromatics. I found a perfumey nose on this one. Their rosé is made with both Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir grapes.

At $29.90, the Pinot Noir is nice and jammy. The more this wine breathes, the fuller it gets. We tasted a recent release of this varietal, one that spends a year in barrel and another six months in the bottle to complete the aging process.

We sat down for lunch in the barrel room, enjoying these wines with gourmet fixings, later being indulged by BC Wine Institute consultant Rhys Pender MW in a blind tasting session. The lunch was compliments of both the BC Wine Institute and Thompson Okanagan Tourism. It was hosted by Tantalus Operations Manager Jane Hatch and Winemaker David Paterson.

Tantalus Vineyards is located at 1670 DeHart Road in Kelowna.

[Summerhill Pyramid Winery Cipes Rosé made with 100% organic Pinot Noir cuvée]

Our final winery visit was to Summerhill Pyramid Winery. Another pioneering Okanagan winery, Summerhill was the first organic winery in BC. This year, the winery hopes to receive Demeter certification. This worldwide standard means absolutely no chemicals will be used in the growing, production, and manufacturing of the grapes.

The terroir is exceptional for Riesling, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay. All three are grown here.

65 acres of organic vines, an awesome view of the lake and mountains, plus the famous pyramid all add up to the most visited winery in Canada. We met with CEO Ezra Cipes, who also mentioned that the first VQA meetings took place on this property. The original name of the winery was Pyramid Cellars, part of Stephen Cipes’ (Ezra’s dad) original vision for the winery to be a champagne house. Winemaker Eric VonKrosigk and Vineyard Manager Harold Gaudy round out the Summerhill team.

The Summerhill Pyramid, though significantly smaller than the Great Pyramid of Egypt (upon which it’s modeled after) matches its larger Egyptian cousin in both structure and shape. It’s aligned to absolute True North and contains no ferrous materials in it, meaning that it won’t risk being reoriented to magnetic north anytime soon.

What’s it like being inside that pyramid? We did climb up the stairs and sat down on a few seats, formed in a circle. Though the pyramid has been used for weddings and other special events, I felt relaxed inside, gazing up at the large crystal that’s wired at the top. I’d definitely recommend a visit to experience it for yourself. It’s also larger than it appears from the outside.

Another part of our visit included a wine paired dinner at the Sunset Organic Bistro.

[Sunset Organic Bistro Chef Jesse Croy]

[Arugula Salad with red quinoa, Cawston pear vinaigrette, paired with Ehrenfelser]

We all ordered from Chef Jesse Croy’s Sip Into Sunset four course dinner with wine ($73; $48 without wine pairing).

[Sunset Organic Bistro sablefish]

My sablefish was delicious and flaky, with a dark crust and an assortment of fresh raw and perfectly cooked organic vegetables. Dessert was a generous slice of cheesecake served with warm plum preserves, together with a Zweigelt Icewine.

[Santa Rosa plum cheesecake with warm plum preserves, paired with Zweigelt Icewine.]

Summerhill Pyramid Winery is located at 4870 Chute Lake Road in Kelowna. Our dinner was compliments of both Summerhill Winery and Thompson Okanagan Tourism.
May11

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Kelowna’s Boutique Hotel Eldorado

Posted in: Architecture, Dining, History, Interior Design, Lodging, Okanagan Valley, Resorts, Travel, Weddings, Wine

The Hotel Eldorado has an interesting history. “Having originally been built for Countess Bubna Litite of Austria, the Eldorado Arms was a place where the Countess’ weary European visitors could relax and enjoy some of the luxuries they had grown accustomed to in their homeland”.

Originally located one mile south of its current location, the 1926 hotel was moved in the early 80′s by barge to where it now stands. You may wonder why an entire hotel was relocated just one mile away. The heritage building was slated for demolition at the old location, and this was the only way to save it. And once the move was finally complete, the hotel was burned to the ground by an arsonist. So much for preserving the Eldorado!

The current owners decided to rebuild “The El” using original blueprints and photographs. In 2006, an additional 39 rooms were added to the property, following the style of a 1940′s Hampton beach house.

If this is enough to perk your curiosity, it should. The Eldorado is a wonderful hark back to the 20′s, complete with wainscoting, old style lamps and furniture, and an imposing location on the lake. I stayed in the new Eldorado Arms wing of the hotel, containing 30 guest rooms.

My room had cork flooring, duvets, a flat screen TV, and a higher-end bathroom, as opposed to the “older” part of the hotel. I slept very well in the comfortable king bed. No iPhone dock in the room, but a desk lamp with several outlets on top made charging easy enough with the cable I’d packed.

The hotel offers 19 heritage guest rooms and 36 boutique-style guest rooms and suites. My room was bright and airy, with every amenity necessary for my comfort. Terry robes are provided for the spa and pool, both located indoors on the property.

I had a 4th floor tree top view, which gave me the chance to pull out my zoom lens and try to capture some local bird life.

There’s also a steam room and exercise equipment for guests. In-room high speed internet as well as wireless internet are both available.

The small but well-varied daily breakfast menu offers dishes using local ingredients in a beautiful room to greet the morning stillness of the Eldorado Marina.

The El’s Sunday brunch has been voted Best Brunch in the Okanagan for several years straight.

I didn’t have the opportunity to try the Bar at the El nor the hotel’s lakeside restaurant, but both are welcome additions to the relaxed atmosphere. The restaurant’s wine list alone offers over 150 different labels.

Other hotel amenities include meeting rooms perfect for business, receptions, and private parties, as well as a wedding venue.

There’s even the Kelowna Liquor Store at The El conveniently located next door, great for both local and imported wines not available at government liquor stores. The store is also proud to stock the coldest beer in Kelowna. A Wall of Spirits allows access to a wide variety of brands.

The Hotel Eldorado is located at 500 Cook Road in Kelowna. My accommodation and breakfasts were compliments of both The Hotel Eldorado and Thompson Okanagan Tourism.
May10

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The Vanilla Pod at Poplar Grove

Posted in: Dining, Okanagan Valley, Travel, Wine

Poplar Grove Winery is one of the Naramata Bench wine region’s first five wineries. It started in 1993 when Ian Sutherland planted 2.5 acres of Cabernet Franc and Merlot grapes. In 1995, Poplar Grove released its first vintage release, a Cabernet Franc that won top honours at the Okanagan International Wine Festival.

In 2007, Tony Holler became the winery’s majority owner and president, together with Ian and Barrie Sali rounding out the team. Poplar Grove’s acreage increased when the Holler family brought their Holler Estate Vineyards to the mix, adding 110 acres of vineyard sites throughout the Southern Okanagan.

Our small group of writers met with Ian Sutherland and General Manager Jacquie Carlson last week, to enjoy a dinner at the onsite yet-to-be-opened Vanilla Pod at Poplar Grove. It recently moved from its former location in downtown Summerland to Poplar Grove.

Once the restaurant is complete, it will enjoy the same commanding views as does the winery showroom. It will also showcase the award winning wines of both Poplar Grove and Monster Vineyards.

[Vanilla Pod's Executive Chef Bruno Terroso]

Executive Chef Bruno Terroso introduced each of his dishes as we were fortunate to dine in the winery library, amongst the barrels, seated at a long table together. At the time of our visit, the restaurant was still under construction, but from what we saw, well under way to becoming a fabulous winery destination restaurant when it opens in June.

Our meal started with a lobster and prawn bisque, paired with a 2009 Chardonnay ($22). Poplar Grove ferments its chardonnay in stainless steel, at a temperature as cold as possible. It’s then finished for nine months in French oak, imparting that nutty, cashew flavour. The slight heat of the bisque allowed the Chardonnay to cut in nicely throughout the course.

A simply prepared organic green salad followed, with red onions and strawberries mixed into the greens. Poplar’s 2010 Monster Rosé ($18) was paired here.

We tasted a Legacy 2007 ($50), with New Zealand rack of lamb, grilled eggplant roll, romano bean mash, nugget potatoes, and rosemary aioli. Legacy is Poplar’s flagship wine, a combination of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. These particular grape combinations change depending on the vintage produced. The wine spends 21 months in French oak, then 14 months in bottle. Each release takes three to four years to produce. This wine has a cayenne/spicy aroma, together with cassis, and a deep colour. Great combination chosen.

With a name like Vanilla Pod, our hopes of being served crème brûlée were realized when the pots were brought out with a pour of 2010 Late Harvest Riesling. Together with the crème brûlée, it was delicious, containing enough acid balance without going too heavy on residual sugar. Polar Grove’s riesling comes from their Osoyoos block of vines. It’s normally not sold, so we were fortunate to be served this great after-dinner wine with our dessert. The crème brûlée did not disappoint either. Shiny, light, and not too sweet, with a nice golden coloured crackle on top.

Vanilla Pod Restaurant at Poplar Grove Winery is located at 425 Middle Bench Road in North Penticton. Our wine-paired meal was compliments of both Vanilla Pod Restaurant and Poplar Grove Winery.
May10

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Pacific Argi-Food Research Centre

Posted in: Education, Environment, Nature, Okanagan Valley, Sustainability, Technology, Travel, Wine

High above the hills of South Summerland lies the Pacific Argi-Food Research Centre. This important centre researches the links between food, nutrition, and health. Its goal is to balance the activities of agriculture with a sustainable environment. Our media tour included a visit to this important centre last week.

A team of researchers and specialists in the field led us inside through several labs, as we learned about some of the grapevine diseases, diagnostic procedures, and life cycles of various plants and pests.

The BC Wine Grape Council supports the research, and is heavily involved in its operations.

We learned from Dr. Jose Torres that fungi affects 75% of grapevine-infecting disease. His team helps to identify problems that wine growers experience. In California alone, $250 million is spent yearly in fighting various plant fungi. It’s become worldwide problem with no cure yet in place. What’s key is being able to quickly identify the material causing the disease. Cultures are made, and under closer inspection, signs of disease in the field can be identified. Understanding the life cycle of pathogens helps these researchers in developing strategies to protect the vines. The Centre feels fortunate that they are supported in their work.

In the aroma and flavour lab, field trials determine aroma and flavour in a wine’s tannins. There are five compounds, each with their own distinct aroma, and are very potent. Sensory studies are conducted to analyze and identify aromas and qualities of wine. There are literally thousands of different aromas and flavours to be found in grapes. This department helps to fine tune both the taste and aroma.

[Jar of tannin]

Tannin is the main component in wine that’s responsible for dryness in the mouth.

[Cash still]

Using a Cash Still, wine is poured into the centre. Boiling water is contained on the outside, heating the wine on the inside. Anything that boils out of the cash still will leave a residue. The residue drips into a container, containing volatile acids. These acids can help to determine threshold levels, going back to the microbiology of the wine.

We were led through the grape entomology lab, where experts collect cutworm specimens throughout their life cycle. The worms come out at night causing damage to the buds. This department looks at ways to control disease. Since 2001, these pests have been collected off of BC vines.

Downstairs in the greenhouses, certain plant species are grown to help with pest control. This ecosystem principle is helpful in preventing outbreaks.

We later tested a couple of early wines going through their paces at the lab. Also on site are filtration and bottling facilities, as well as climate-controlled rooms for barrel aging and for storage of 10,000 bottles of wine. 350 to 1,000 litre production tanks can also be found here, as well as a 32-tank micro-oxygenation system and portable glycol systems.

Luckily for the commercial wine industry, this valuable centre works together with wine growers in defining best practices for pests, disease control techniques, and terroir descriptions using geographic information system (GIS) tools. Touring this facility was a valuable learning experience for me. It’s rare to be invited to see what goes on behind the scenes of wine production, away from the winery shops and tasting rooms.

The Summerland Pacific Argi-Food Research Centre is located at 4200 Highway #97 in South Summerland. Phone 250.494.7711 for more information on scheduling an appointment.
May7

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Touring Okanagan’s Wineries

Posted in: History, Okanagan Valley, Travel, Wine

[Dirty Laundry Vineyard]

Last week, I was invited along with a small media group to experience a few days in the Okanagan Valley. Our trip not only took in several wineries and restaurants, but an agri-food research centre as well as a unique agriculture farm-turned RV park.

In total, we toured six wineries. This feature focuses on three of the six. I’ll continue with part two next week.

Dirty Laundry Vineyards is a Summerland winery located on a plateau that enjoys the perfect microclimate as well as excellent sun exposure for its vines. We were given a short tour of the shop, vineyard, and tanks by Judi Skinner, Dirty Laundry’s Viniculturist and Sales/Marketing Manager.

Judi’s stories were entertaining, as is the history of Dirty Laundry itself. Many of the varietals have playful names, such as Woo Woo Vines (Gewürtztraminer), Kay-Syrah, A Girl in Every Port, and Not So Knotty Chardonnay.

The history of the Okanagan goes back to the late 1800′s, bridging fur traders, gold miners, and cattlemen with the construction of the Canadian Pacific Railway. A Chinese worker fled the railway’s punishing construction to open a laundry. Later an ‘unmet’ need brought a brothel to the second floor of his establishment. This story is told with a grin by Judi, as she recalled the roots of ‘hush, hush‘, part of the vineyard’s lore.

Our small group enjoyed several wines with a packed picnic lunch on the patio. In summer, this patio has a vine-covered roof, with live music to entertain wine lovers from all over the world.

Dirty Laundry is located at 7311 Fiske Street in Summerland.

[Okanagan Crush Pad vines]

I’m no stranger to Okanagan Crush Pad’s wines, however this was my first visit to both the Summerland facility and winery. We were taken on a brief tour by owner Christine Coletta, later joined by Julian Scholefield in the tasting room.

[Okanagan Crush Pad's Julian Scholefield]

We were fortunate to arrive on an afternoon where bottles of rosé and white wine were being labelled coming off the assembly line.

This winery can accommodate private clients and wine makers, offering an entire range of services, from vineyard management and winemaking to branding, manufacturing and sales distribution.

The fermentation eggs were a unique sight to see. I’d envisioned a single egg; seeing an entire row was even more impressive!

The Crush Pad range of wines is constantly growing. The original collection includes haywire Switchback Vineyard Pinot Gris Clone 52 ($23.00), Gamay Noir Rosé ($21.00), and Pinot Noir ($27.00), Bartier-Scholefield’s White ($22.00) and Rosé $20.00) Table Wines, and Bartier Bros. The Cowboy ($23.00) and The Goal ($30.00). Rob Feenie has recently bottled a selection or two as well. Expected around Christmas will be 375 cases of haywire Bubble (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay).

We sampled seven wines from the regular assortment above, in addition to a tank sample of 2011 Canyon View Pinot Noir ($27.00), a young, biodynamic vineyard producer that’s aiming to become 100% organic next year. This wine comes from a young vineyard (6th leaf), with black cherry and earthy aromas. It will be released at the end of September, in time for the Okanagan Fall Wine Festival.

Okanagan Crush Pad is located at 16576 Fosbery Road in Summerland.

[Cedar Creek Estate Winery]

Cedar Creek Estate Winery is one of the first eight pioneering Okanagan wineries. Senator Ross Fitzpatrick began this winery in 1987, having started out in the fruit packing industry.

The winery has been crowned Canada’s Winery of the Year on two occasions over the past quarter century.

We were given a short tour and later tasted five of their wines. Between a 2011 Riesling ($17.90), a 2011 Pinot Gris ($17.90), a 2009 Estate Merlot ($17.90), and a 2007 Platinum Meritage ($39.90), I was most taken with the Merlot. This varietal was released literally two days before our arrival. I found a fully flavourful wine here, with black and red currant aroma, and vanilla/currant taste. This one is really promising for such a young wine. Noticed that I’d mentioned five wines.

At the end of our sampling, a 2011 Ehrenfelser was poured for our group. With its sweet nose but tangy taste, I’d discovered a new varietal on this trip! At $18.90 a bottle, this one’s worth further investigating.

Cedar Creek Estate Winery is located at 5445 Lakeshore Road in Kelowna.
Feb16

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Madrid: Gastrofestival and Beyond

Posted in: Books, Dining, Events, Fine Art, Movies, Museums, Theater, Travel

Madrid = tapas. Tapas = Madrid. Or so it would seem on any given day. We had the excellent fortune to be in town for the annual Gastrofestival that ended last week in the capital. The two week festival featured both 25 and 40 Euro dinners. A third option was the more deluxe 75 Euro “Dine with the Stars” menu.

As well, 66 bars opened their doors with a special 3 Euro tapa and Mahou beer offering, though we didn’t limit ourselves to Gastofestival-specific tapas establishments.

In addition, gastronomy in painting, film, theatre and books offered culinary adventures away from the traditional restaurant and bar atmosphere.

Throughout our stay, we checked out various bars to try the regional tapas. We came across estado puro, a tapas bar featuring two Michelin-starred Chef Paco Roncero’s creations.

[estado puro]

We wound up eating at the Calle San Sebastian location twice, it was that good.

Madrid also has a Museo de Jamon for hard-core Iberian ham lovers.

Extended family took us to Fatigas del Querer in the Calle de la Cruz for more of that wonderful, paper-thin delicacy, along with other tapas. Pitchers of sangria came along for the ride.

Back in our barrio (Tirso de Molina), it was hard to choose from the abundance of Indian restaurants lining Calle Lavapiés.

Another excursion brought us to Mercado San Miguel, where we tasted divine macarons and perused the seafood, olives, and other delicacies. We later stumbled upon another market in the Chueca district, the Mercado de San Antonio.

And to top off any meal, head for churros y chocolate at Chocolatería de San Ginés, recently voted #8 in National Geographic’s top 10 guide of best places to indulge in chocolate in the world. After having had churros in other Madrid locales, San Gines’ dipping chocolate was by far the tastiest.

Hungry yet?
Feb14

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Estadio Santiago Bernabéu Tour

Posted in: Branding, History, Sports, Travel

While working our way across Madrid’s metros recently, we headed to Estadio Santiago Bernabéu for a self-guided tour. This is the world-renowned home of Real Madrid C.F., and the tour takes visitors through to all areas of the stadium.

This is a soccer fan’s dream, and my husband and I were both wowed by the beautifully decorated champion cups. Right down to the field, changing room (guest team only), director’s box, VIP seats, and media room, this tour was at our own pace and gave a great background of the club’s history.

[1902: the first "Madrid Football Club" logo]

Not only is Real Madrid’s over 100 year history on view, but the basketball and baseball teams form part of the archives as well. The tour begins in the trophy room, showing off European and League Cups, Spanish Cups, International Cups and individual player trophies.

Passing by the posh VIP area, you’re led to the first peak of the stadium as seen from midway up.

The plastic Real Madrid logo-emblazoned seats turn to cushier white at the prime lower centre field area. We continued to descend until we were at field level, where the players sit on the Audi seats.

We found the player’s tunnel the most exciting part of the tour.

I can only imagine the nervous excitement that both teams must feel when exiting the changing room and heading towards the field to start the match.

The visitor’s dressing room is open, as are the shower and massage areas. All in blue and well kept, the tour then leads to the press room, where after 90 minutes of play, the next “match” occurs for both players and reporters.

Finishing off the tour is the two level Tienda (gift shop), a must for fans. We picked up several scarves, a cap, and team pin for the journey home.

The Bernabéu Stadium tour is open every day of the year. On game days, the tours are available up to six hours before kick off. Visit the website for detailed hours and tickets.

Disclosure: Our Bernabéu tour was available via the Madrid Card, compliments of the Madrid Visitors & Convention Bureau.
Feb13

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Touring Madrid

Posted in: Dance, Museums, Music, Travel

Hola! Back from sunny (but often chilly!) Madrid, taking in the sights and city life for the past 10 days. We started off with a week in Holland, visiting family and friends, and then continued south for a taste of Spanish culture. From the latest news online, we’re also back just in time (this week will see over 270 flight cancellations due to a pilot strike)! I’ll focus this story instead on touring Madrid.

Arriving in Madrid can seem daunting, with a plethora of museums, cultural spots, dining options, and travel tours. I did a fair amount of pre-trip research, and with the help of the Madrid Tourism Bureau, we arranged a Madrid Card and Madrid City Tour bus tickets.

Taking a city bus (aka “hop-on, hop-off”) is a great option for a large city like Madrid, and one that we’ve used in several European cities previously, including Brussels and Barcelona. Once you’re aboard, a set of earphones is your guide to the city’s highlights (with close to 10 language choices).

On the day we chose to use our tickets, the busses were enclosed due to the brisk, February winter winds. Still, I was able to capture several great shots of the beautiful architecture around the city. It’s pretty easy to locate a spot and get off the bus, tour a bit of that area’s attractions, and get back on the next one. A map is provided showing the stops along both routes.

And since it WAS pretty cold, we were grateful to be indoors for a morning. Madrid’s city tour takes in two different routes. We chose the longer (80 minute) “blue” route One. Busses run every day of the year with varying timetables per (high and low) season. The tickets can be purchased on the bus, at hotels, travel agencies, the Madrid City Tour Info Centre, or online.

Another excellent option is the Madrid Card. It’s offered in four time periods: 24, 48, 72, or 120 hour increments. Over 50 museums, monuments, and guided tours are included in the price. In addition, you’ll get discounts to several restaurants, shops, Segway (!) tours, etc.

We chose several major museums and did so judiciously: Major museums like the Prado, Thyssen-Bornemisza, and Reina Sofia are enormous and should be enjoyed with a lunch break and rest in between. We visited two each day. If you try to fit in too many, you’ll suffer the consequences of tourist exhaustion before your first flamenco show! Speaking of flamenco, many shows get underway well past midnight, so plan to take a “down day” if you’re keen on getting into such places as Candela, Casa Patas, or Villa Rosa.

If you’re headed to Madrid soon, the Prado Museum is currently hosting a special travelling exhibit from the Hermitage Museum, on through March 25. The exhibit is part of the Year of Russia in Spain and Spain in Russia collaboration between the two nations.

As well, the Marc Chagall exhibit at the Thyssen-Bornemisza is about to get underway (February 14 to May 20).

Here’s a few images from our city tour experience. More photos from my Madrid trip can be found on Flickr: Madrid/food, Madrid/people, Madrid/places.

Disclosure: Our Madrid Cards and City Bus Tour tickets were compliments of the Madrid Visitors & Convention Bureau.
Nov25

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Whistler’s Summit Lodge and Spa

Posted in: Dining, Lodging, Resorts, Spa, Travel, Whistler Blackcomb

Whistler’s Summit Lodge and Spa is conveniently located near many of the resort’s top restaurants, shops, cafés and Whistler Conference Centre (making it the perfect sleep and home base for Whistler Cornucopia, the reason I was in town over the recent holiday weekend).
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Oct11

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Whistler: Between the Seasons

Posted in: Dining, Farmer's Market, Inspiration, Nature, Resorts, Travel, Whistler Blackcomb

Other articles in this series: Unwind Time at Scandinave Spa, Touring Whistler Brewing Company, A Visit to Purebread Whistler.

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